Campanas de Belen

We will not be home for Christmas. Our Christmases will not be white! While we miss our families, and our hearts ache a bit to be away from them, it is a beautiful experience to be here.

Most of the people that we know in Suchitoto do not have money for gifts. Some children might get new clothes for Christmas eve. Others just look forward to eating tamales or chicken sandwiches and dancing the night away in their homes.

The Christmas tree just went up in the plaza! It's so exciting to see it. Usually by December I'm tired of seeing trees since we are so inundated with Christmas commercialism in America. It is refreshing.

We have gone to the posada the past 3 nights. It is a beautiful tradition. The first night they started in Barrio Santa Lucia and walked to Barrio Conception. A large group gathers, singing Christmas carols and blowing loud whistles as they walk. In front are four women carrying the manger scene. They arrive at a house, and knock on the door. There is a song between the people inside and the people outside. This is a reenactment of Mary and Joseph needing a place to sleep and being told "there is no room in the inn".

Finally the door opens, the nativity scene and all the people enter. Everyone sings:

Enter holy pilgrims, 
receive this corner
not this poor dwelling
but my heart.
Tonight is for joy,
for pleasure and rejoicing,
for tonight we will give lodging 
to the Mother of God the Son.

Everyone listens to a short homily and juice and cookies are served. It has been fun to feel the rhythm of this tradition as we near closer to Noche Buena (Christmas Eve). Check out the videos below to get a glimpse of the experience.

Familia

It seems like a dream now, when I think back. But it's true - they were here!

My parents and brother Mark came to visit for 4 days over Thanksgiving. It was such a joy to have them here. To share this experience with them, to feel their energy and excitement for Suchitoto. 

They stayed in the hostel at Centro Arte that night. The next morning we toured the arts center, a chat with the charismatic Sister Peggy, learning about the war and the lake in the museum "La Memoria Vive". 

Every adventure has its bump in the road. My parents luggage was left in Atlanta. The folks at the airport told them they should come back to San Salvador the next day to get the luggage, otherwise they would have to wait a long time to receive it in Suchitoto. Peggy (the director at Centro Arte) said "absolutely not, I will call in the morning". Her strong presence is enough to make mountains move. She sent a taxi driver with their passports, and the taxi driver returned with the luggage.

We live in a different world!

After the luggage arrived everyone was much more relaxed and ready to explore. We enjoyed some time at Centro Arte para la Paz where we work, and learned a little about the war in their museum Memoria Vive. We walked around the town, enjoyed a swim at the hotel El Tejado, and of course ate pupusas at Villa Balanza. 

The next day we went with Guazapa Tours on a hike. Guazapa is a hilly area where much of the guerrilla fighting took place. It was fascinating to see it and hear the struggles of the people fighting and hiding in the hills. We rode there and back on a pick up truck with bars attached. The hilly ride was quite rough, and we had to duck a lot due to the large branches in the way. Quite the adventure!

We went down to Puerto San Juan to see the beautiful Lago Suchitlan, and had a sweet Thanksgiving at Los Alemendros. I had been teaching a kindergarten music class, and sang a few of our songs at their graduation in a small community outside of Suchitoto. The family came to the graduation as well, which was a fun chance for them to see a cultural tradition here. The graduation was somewhat disorganized, but with a lot of joy and stylish outfits. 

It was wonderful for them to meet the good people that we work with, the faces of our neighborhood and our friends as well. It makes it easier to be here, knowing that they have also been here and know Suchitoto. There is a calm and warmth here that is unlike any other place I have been, and I am growing to love it.

Thanksgiving was last month, but we are still grateful. Grateful for food, water, friends, and family, here and in the states. 

The grass is not, in fact, always greener on the other side of the fence. No, not at all. Fences have nothing to do with it. The grass is greenest where it is watered. When crossing over fences, carry water with you and tend the grass where ever you may be. 
-Robert Fulghum

Monkey!

Cambios Sostenibles

El Salvador has its share of social and economic issues. Gang violence, domestic violence, lack of jobs, lack of education. School is 4 hours a day and many children drop out because they have to work. There are many children and adults that cannot read or write.

Here we are volunteering, ready to help. Are we going to fix all these problems? Certainly not. I believe change comes from the will of the people, and leadership from within the community.

Yet here we are, white people ready to save the world.

Isn't it a little bit pretentious? We are lucky enough to have had a college education, but that does not make us any better than the El Salvadoran man working in the corn field 12 hours a day to feed his family. I imagine he has wisdom and strength that I will never have.

We are here to serve, and to be served. More than anything though, we are here to learn. 
 
I talked to a woman recently who was asking about our work here. She was impressed by our 2 year committment. We were telling her about the different classes we are teaching. "But really, you'll do something bigger in 2 years. Something more than a choir".

More than a choir? 

Actually, no I don't think so. If all we do in our 2 years is provide opportunities for young people to sing and make music, that will be wonderful. 

When I was growing up I was in a choir from age 5. I loved to sing in the shower, in the car, walking with my parents holding their hands. Music makes life richer, and more full of joy. These children do not have arts in the schools. Many of them have to help with chores around the house, and they don't have much time to be kids. Centro Arte is a place where they can learn and play! I like being a part of that.

I heard about a woman who enjoys going on mission trips to spread the gospel. When asked if she was going to build houses, she responded, "they need Jesus more". 

With all due respect to her mission trip, I think she missed the point.

Last weekend, we went to a celebration lunch of a friend of a friend. She lives outside of San Salvador in a house with a tin roof and 2 tiny rooms. There were 3 beds crammed in one room, where 6 people sleep. This family did not know us, but they welcomed us just the same. We had a delicious lunch of bean soup and tortillas. We ate the fruit from their fruit trees. We enjoyed the cool afternoon breeze and laughed together.

Thank you for being Christ to me. Thank you for showing me what it is to be generous and love with open arms.

"To defend the cause of the poor and the needy,
Is this not what it means to know God?" 
-Jeremiah 22