This week was party week. The celebration of Santa Lucia, the patron saint of Suchitoto. Every morning, fireworks went off beginning at 3:30AM, for a different neighborhood in the town. Each night the "queen" from that neighborhood rides in her carriage and the neighbors cheer as she passes. And there are more fireworks.
Fireworks here have no bounds here. Anything goes. Including the "toritos". Men put a wooden platform on their back full of fireworks and run around while the fireworks go off above them. They often run towards crowds of people as well, and the children run away laughing. Honestly, it is really dangerous. It's fun as long as you keep your distance!
The 12th of December was the big party. There were beautiful fireworks, and 3 live bands. We stayed up until 3AM dancing, and then ate some late-night pupusas in the plaza. If you know Suchitoto, you know that most people go to bed at 8PM, and dancing until 3AM is unheard of. The 12th is the great exception, the party of the year. A city come to life.
On Monday morning, the fireworks started at 3:30. The fireworks sounded more like cannons, really. Our bed shook. There was no sleeping through it.
At 5AM we dragged ourselves out of bed and wandered over to the arts center. There were at least 50 people outside sitting on the sidewalks, watching us as we entered. Inside the arts center walls were at least 100 more people, some serving coffee, sweet bread, and a corn drink called atole. A small band was also there playing loudly, with gusto.
How odd, everyone so cheerful so early in the morning. Yet I too felt the joy that was present - a sense of community and tradition. I felt honored to be there, in that odd, joyful moment.
Everyone turned their coffee cups upside down and made them into candle holders. Four women carried Santa Lucia, the patron saint of Suchitoto. We processed together, singing songs in the darkness. "Es Maria la blanca paloma... que ha venido a America a traer la paz..." The sun was beginning to rise, the beginnings of light entering the sky, when we arrived at the church.
We participated in a short service with our neighbors from Barrio San Jose. I lit a candle for those I love. It was sweet, and simple, and moving.
My name is Spanish is pronounced "Llena", which means full. I do feel "full", full of gratefulness and life. And tortillas, of course!
"Remember when you were little and you thought everything was amazing? It still is."
It has been a long time since I've written! Since my last post, Chris and I have been to Belize to renew our visa, the Davis family has visited (my in-laws!), the students in Suchitoto have started their 2 month vacation, and we changed our teaching schedules to begin summer workshops.
Where to start?
The Davis family helped remind me of all the things I love about El Salvador. The pupusas, the delicious rice, the smoothies. The friendly, animated people. The coffee country, the volcanoes, the big rock that supposedly looks like a pig in the ocean, the fascinating history. They were amazed by every little thing. Ron and Don began talking to strangers, even though they couldn't speak the language. We laughed and played. It was a great adventure.
My favorite day was when we went to the hot springs of Santa Teresa outside of Auachapan. We took the bus, and got off at the stop. "1 kilometer" it said. We can walk! So, we began walking through a very rural area, passing farmers and butterflies. Every 10 minutes or so we would see a sign that said "you're almost there!" By the time we got there, (more than 1 kilometer later), we were hot and sweaty. We wandered over to the geyser, wondering if it would be worth the walk.
It was worth it.
They have made 10 pools or so made of natural hot springs water, varying from cooler to very hot. It was so fun trying the different pools, relaxing and enjoying the warmth. We got to put on some facial sandy white stuff (?) and be silly. It was such a fun day! And, we caught a taxi home. Phew.
Another exciting thing was that Chris and I got asked to be the godparents of the kindergarten graduation in La Mora, the rural community where I work. We bought a cake, and a present for each child. It was a a great opportunity. I have been so fortunate to receive gifts for Christmas, birthdays, and special events. It was a nice chance to give a gift to kids who don't receive many (if any) presents.
I did find myself a bit sad. I have worked with these kids for 7 months, and really have watched the kindergarteners grow up. They're still wild and crazy, but now a tiny bit less than before! It has been sweet to build relationships with them.
This week, another volunteer Laura and I started leading a theater camp for 10-12 year olds. We are putting on Snow White (a very funny, short version) complete with a Thriller dance break. None of the kids have ever been in a play before, and some of them have never seen one. We are answering questions like: What is a stage manager? What is upstage, downstage? What is blocking? What do I do if I forget my line? (Oh, and how do I say all that in Spanish??)
In Suchitoto we are getting ready for the patron saint fiestas, and enjoying the sweet, sweet November breeze. It is still raining some, which has worried the farmers for their corn and bean crops. Hopefully it will stop soon.
In other news, Chris and I are looking forward to being home for a whole month in January! I will be getting my 200 hour yoga certification, and Chris will be studying for the GRE and getting his CNA license. At this point in our journey we are feeling a bit homesick, so it will be nice to be back in North Carolina for a while. In February we will return to Suchitoto for 5 more months of volunteering before moving back to the states.
A lot to be excited about - and a lot to be grateful for.
