Dia de los Difuntos

Last weekend was the dia de los difuntos, the day of the "passed away".

There are 20,000 people in Suchitoto, and almost all of them were at the graveyard. There was a sea of people in the pathways, walking to their family's tombs. "Enflorar" is a verb here, meaning to cover with flowers. There were at least 100 vendors selling paper flowers, some of which they had made themselves. The families decorated the tomb, and some hired painters to re-paint the gravestone.

I had anticipated a somber experience, but it was quite the opposite. I imagine on the inside the Salvadorans felt a small sadness, they did not show it. This was a joyful day, to celebrate family and give thanks for those that have gone before. 

I found myself longing for a family here. I wanted to sit on my grandmother's grave all day and eat ice cream with the people I loved best. It just seemed right.

Salvadorans are no strangers to death. They know it all too well. Everyone in El Salvador has  lost someone in their life to the cruelty of war. I cannot imagine carrying on with life after losing people I cared so deeply for. There is a resilience in the people here. 

The graveyard was so bright with color! I am constantly reminded of the power of bright colors here. It is hard to be sad with such beauty around you. 

I think we fear (and maybe even hate) death so much in our country. At the graveyard I was reminded that it's okay to celebrate a person's life, and to move on. If I died I would certainly want that for my family. And a party of remembrance every year, in which the whole community comes together! I love it. 

And then there was the food. It felt as if every food vendor in the country was there outside the graveyard. Minutas (slushies), pupusas, refrescos (cold drinks), pan (cookies and sweet things), pollo (chicken), pasteles. It was tempting to eat it all, but we had a refresco de coconut and that was enough.

Chris just loved the mariachi band that was there. He could not get enough mariachi music.

As we were sitting watching the musicians dance and sing, I looked down and realized I was sitting on a grave. "In honor of the disappeared in Suchitoto and El Salvador". So many people were killed in the war, and many never even had the right to be returned to their families. In the midst of the joyful melodies I had tears in my eyes. 

"Here on the pulse of this new day
You may have the grace to look up and out
And into your sister's eyes, into
Your brother's face, your country
And say simply
Very simply
With hope
Good morning."
--Maya Angelou